The Casual Restaurant Critic
This Restaurant Reviewed: February, 2007
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The Principe Tutul Xiu (Mérida) reviewed: February, 2007 CRC Rating:
(see below for the chilito guide) |
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| The Principe Tutul Xiu is a popular weekend getaway for Yucatecans and their visitors from out of state. Located, in Mani, it offers a typical 'country' or rural experience, with the small pueblo feel of the Yucatecan back country and good food at accessible prices under a huge palapa with hand made fresh corn tortillas. |
above - El Principe Tutul Xiu in Mani below - their famous Poc Chuc
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The Critic can imagine that someone suggested that they open a version of their successful restaurant in Merida, to help people get their fix of poc chuc without having to drive all the way to Mani. To the Critic, one of the attractions of eating at El Principe Tutul Xiu is precisely the drive through the country to get there in the first place. But the Critic suspects that as in so many aspects of local culture and even globalization, the customer wants immediate gratification for their appetites. Well, their Merida version is not exactly on the Paseo de Montejo in terms of accessibility. Located in the south of Merida where the so-called clase popular resides, out of sight of well-to-do Yucatecans living near Costco, the Gran Plaza mall and Wal-Mart, it seems an odd choice of location at least to this Critic. |
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While the surroundings are far from 'rural', the interior has been painted in bright purples, yellows and greens making for a less-than- relaxing experience. The food, so worth the drive out to Mani, was somehow not up to par and the Critic was hungry when he showed up for a late lunch on a Friday. The Poc Chuc came out almost immediately, the roasted pork bits cold on their bed of lettuce and shredded cabbage and in need of some salt. The Queso Relleno, another perennial favourite of this Critic, were basically a few slices of Edam or Gouda cheese, floating in a thick, traditional corn starch k'ol, and covered in what tasted a lot like a Bolognese spaghetti sauce! Only one raisin was to be found and no hints of almonds, capers or the other subtle flavours usually found in the stuffing. |
Tortillas were good, as were salsas, but not
outstanding. The agua de lima was very good and you should try it (also
agua de naranja agria) whenever you can since it is becoming harder and
harder to find these days.
Service was basic but not particularly friendly. In short, this Principe is not really a prince worth paying homage to.
You can get to this restaurant from the downtown area by driving down Calle 50 until you bump into Calle 123; there you turn left and look for a large palapa on your right. |
